Marrakech - Ouarzazte - Todra Gorge - Tineghir - Merzouga - Sahara - Fes - Meknes - Chefchaouen - Tangier - Asilah - Imlil - Essaouira - Marrakech
Assalamu alekum!! Ca va? Well, I've finally stumbled back into the
western wilderness after 21 days of sugar loaded teas and oil filled refined sugar soaked in yet more sugary honey goodness. I had the most amazing time in Morocco. My reservations about going with a tour were quickly put to bed, as the Intrepid BASIX trip is all about local transportation, squat toilets, and plenty of time to get lost (literally) in the Medina's. The Moroccans sell anything,and are hard case hagglers; one guy tried to sell us stones that we had actually seen him pick up off the road! I travelled with a couple Canadians, a Belgian, and 7 Aussies!! Despite that, he he, they were a fantastic bunch and I came away with some awesome friendships. I learnt more French than when I was in
France, and there were times when I didn't know what language to butcher as they would speak Arabic, Berber, French and Spanish all at once!
Assalamu alekum!! Ca va? Well, I've finally stumbled back into the
western wilderness after 21 days of sugar loaded teas and oil filled refined sugar soaked in yet more sugary honey goodness. I had the most amazing time in Morocco. My reservations about going with a tour were quickly put to bed, as the Intrepid BASIX trip is all about local transportation, squat toilets, and plenty of time to get lost (literally) in the Medina's. The Moroccans sell anything,and are hard case hagglers; one guy tried to sell us stones that we had actually seen him pick up off the road! I travelled with a couple Canadians, a Belgian, and 7 Aussies!! Despite that, he he, they were a fantastic bunch and I came away with some awesome friendships. I learnt more French than when I was in
France, and there were times when I didn't know what language to butcher as they would speak Arabic, Berber, French and Spanish all at once! SLEAZY JET Oh, the good old budget airline; the old adage "you get what you pay for" has never been so true.Upon arriving at Marrakesh, it became clear that my bag had not arrived with me, and so began the true test of my budget travelling skills. I put on my "don't mess with me" face and threw myself into the Medina, which is certainly a whole other story in itself.Thus, I survived on the 2 cheapest t-shirts I could haggle for and my jeans, for two weeks. I managed to get my bag one week before I left, and
don't even get me started on that debacle!! Nonetheless, I enjoyed not having to carry a pack around, and it has completely revolutionised my way of travelling.*
don't even get me started on that debacle!! Nonetheless, I enjoyed not having to carry a pack around, and it has completely revolutionised my way of travelling.*ONE LIMP BEAN My first meal was a slice of heaven, which is no surprise after living on 3months of stodgy British fodder. But after a while one realises the staple Moroccan fare of bread, olives, salad, tagines, brochettes, kefta, Hareira and couscous can only take your palate so far.
Breakfast was always a heavy affair with oily crepes and whole loaves of bread, and don't get me started on the 2 inch sugar cubes!! But I must say, the snacks and drinks were always interesting. I was fortunate enough to avoid the old runny belly, but from day one, my fellow buddies were dropping like flies, which was incredibly unfortunate as one of our bus trips was 11 hrs. Might I add, we had a half and half mix of girls and guys, and only
the guys were sick : )
Breakfast was always a heavy affair with oily crepes and whole loaves of bread, and don't get me started on the 2 inch sugar cubes!! But I must say, the snacks and drinks were always interesting. I was fortunate enough to avoid the old runny belly, but from day one, my fellow buddies were dropping like flies, which was incredibly unfortunate as one of our bus trips was 11 hrs. Might I add, we had a half and half mix of girls and guys, and only
the guys were sick : )ILLUSIVE INFRASTRUCTURE In the first week, we were plagued with a lot of rain which caused flooding and washed away bridges, which was cause for a lot of cries of "enshallah!". So for the first week we were constantly faced with detours and unplanned stops. We watched as the local men and even our guys stand at the waters edge shaking their heads; trucks almost tipping over or getting swept away as they attempt to cross; helped get a school bus out whilst
the children are celebrated their obvious day off school; finally made it into Todra Gorge only to be flooded in the next day and had to walk out; had to ditch the van we were in getting to the Sahara as our driver Mr Ali was getting a little stressed, and found a couple 4WDs so that we could go off road and hoon around in the desert in the middle of the night. How the drivers found the kasbah I do not know!
the children are celebrated their obvious day off school; finally made it into Todra Gorge only to be flooded in the next day and had to walk out; had to ditch the van we were in getting to the Sahara as our driver Mr Ali DESERT DREAMS Unfortunately due
to the floods, we were unable to make it to our desert camp, and instead stayed at the kasbah nearby. We woke early the next morning and hiked up the dunes to see a perfect sunrise which was a completely amazing experience. We then hopped on camels and meandered around the desert; a very relaxing mode of transport and I would strongly be in favour of introducing them as an answer to our ozone problems : )
to the floods, we were unable to make it to our desert camp, HAMMERED IN THE HAMAAM One
of my favourite experiences was the local Hamaam in Fes. Basically, a hamaam is where those that don't have bathrooms go to bathe. I went and got the scrub and massage which was hilarious. It involves a lot of hot water being chucked over you or at you, whilst a lady barks orders in French; I felt like a fish flopping around on the floor trying to figure out what I was supposed to be doing. It was all a bit frenetic, and the amount of dirt that came off me was a little frightening, not to mention
the fact that I was getting a bit of a slap around by the woman's breasts. For the women it is a bit of a social event where they sit and chat; a way to let themselves go in a world where they don't have much room to breath. For the men, it is more like a beating session, where they were bent into positions which certainly didn't seem physically kosher. I later went to another in Essaouira where I did my own, and it was much more relaxing, kinda like bathing in a sauna.
TOO MUCH KIF There is a beautiful blue washed village called Chefchaouen which is set in the Rif Mountains. It has this beach side feel and has a very laid back pace of life. Then you start to notice the large amount of physical disabilities the slightly bizarre vibe around the place. Firstly, as it is so isolated, there is a lot of inbreeding. Secondly, there are lots of kif fields in the mountains. Whilst it is illegal, Chefchaouen is renowned for it. Every second person is offering hash.
"Would you like some tea?" no. "would you like some hash?" Even the cookie man starts by offering delicious assortments, and then asks if you want space cake. It's hilarious, people walk behind you and say "hashish, hashish" in this low, raspy voice.
REALITY Part of the ethos of Intrepid Travel is to get involved with communities and interact with the local people, so they have a lot of contacts which enabled us to really see what Morocco is like beyond the touristic facade. We were fortunate enough to be able to visit a cooperative connected with the Peace Corp that teaches handicapped people metalwork, weaving, pottery, in order
that they might have a chance at life. As you can imagine, they are not given much of a go and are pretty much shut away. They pay nothing to attend, and can stay as long as they like. There is huge problems with funding a project such as this, so it is an amazing effort on Fredericks part who set it up. In a country where the King wants to be seen as being in control, it is hard for foreign aid. The village that Frederick works with was washed away by floods, but the King won't let aid come from overseas, so all these people are left homeless, living under plastic bags. Whilst he has done a lot of good things such as giving women more rights, there are so many other things that need to change.
So my friends, that believe it or not is just a couple highlights of my adventure, I could keep going but it would probably be more interesting for me than you. But I have to say, Morocco is an amazing place with a diverse landscape and some beautiful people.
*"The first thing that strikes the traveller is his excessive dirtiness: he never washes...his clothing swarms with parasites which he amuses himself by killing in the most unceremonious way."
Nikola Przhevalski
of my favourite experiences was the local Hamaam in Fes. Basically, a hamaam is where those that don't have bathrooms go to bathe. I went and got the scrub and massage which was hilarious. It involves a lot of hot water being chucked over you or at you, whilst a lady barks orders in French; I felt like a fish flopping around on the floor trying to figure out what I was supposed to be doing. It was all a bit frenetic, and the amount of dirt that came off me was a little frightening, not to mention
the fact that I was getting a bit of a slap around by the woman's breasts. For the women it is a bit of a social event where they sit and chat; a way to let themselves go in a world where they don't have much room to breath. For the men, it is more like a beating session, where they were bent into positions which certainly didn't seem physically kosher. I later went to another in Essaouira where I did my own, and it was much more relaxing, kinda like bathing in a sauna.
TOO MUCH KIF There is a beautiful blue washed village called Chefchaouen which is set in the Rif Mountains. It has this beach side feel and has a very laid back pace of life. Then you start to notice the large amount of physical disabilities the slightly bizarre vibe around the place. Firstly, as it is so isolated, there is a lot of inbreeding. Secondly, there are lots of kif fields in the mountains. Whilst it is illegal, Chefchaouen is renowned for it. Every second person is offering hash.
"Would you like some tea?" no. "would you like some hash?" Even the cookie man starts by offering delicious assortments, and then asks if you want space cake. It's hilarious, people walk behind you and say "hashish, hashish" in this low, raspy voice.REALITY Part of the ethos of Intrepid Travel is to get involved with communities and interact with the local people, so they have a lot of contacts which enabled us to really see what Morocco is like beyond the touristic facade. We were fortunate enough to be able to visit a cooperative connected with the Peace Corp that teaches handicapped people metalwork, weaving, pottery, in order
that they might have a chance at life. As you can imagine, they are not given much of a go and are pretty much shut away. They pay nothing to attend, and can stay as long as they like. There is huge problems with funding a project such as this, so it is an amazing effort on Fredericks part who set it up. In a country where the King wants to be seen as being in control, it is hard for foreign aid. The village that Frederick works with was washed away by floods, but the King won't let aid come from overseas, so all these people are left homeless, living under plastic bags. Whilst he has done a lot of good things such as giving women more rights, there are so many other things that need to change.So my friends, that believe it or not is just a couple highlights of my adventure, I could keep going but it would probably be more interesting for me than you. But I have to say, Morocco is an amazing place with a diverse landscape and some beautiful people.
*"The first thing that strikes the traveller is his excessive dirtiness: he never washes...his clothing swarms with parasites which he amuses himself by killing in the most unceremonious way."
Nikola Przhevalski