Tuesday, 6 March 2007

Six Course Day Dreams

Oh how sad we were to say arrivederci to Italia. Back in the grim and grey of London, and the feel of the sun on my face seems like a dream. I loved Italy, even though it was just a quick dip in the water, it was enough to showcase the good coffee, excellent pastries, (although they never put enough custard in those croissants) and delectable gelato (nutella and yoghurt, peanut butter and chocolate, mmm). In Venice, we found a pizza hole where I had the best slice of pizza in my life; a scrumptious salty base with piquant toppings of artichokes and those purple slightly bitter leafy things. After much anticipation we forked out for some rather expensive tiramasu at this cute romantic little restaurant in Florence, and boy was it worth it. We went to Bologna literally just to eat bolognaise (one of several occasions where we ate pasta before midday!) which had a distinctly different taste to the American version that we have come to know. What I don't understand, is how everyone keeps so slim!! The breakfast pastries are so delicious, but definitely not wholesome; I guess they do use a few more calories drinking their espressos standing..

Barmy Boudoir's
Our first sights of Alba D'Oro Camping in Venice were a little theme park/American summer campesque, and upon further investigation, it seemed that we were indeed there during off-peak season as we wandered amongst the eerie skeletal trees and mushroom huts and didn't see a soul aside from the maintenance men who peered amusingly at us as we got lost trying to find our cabin. When we finally came across it, a miracle given that the campsite was in fact a city made up of every type of cabin, pim, and doge that one could think off, we were happily surprised to find that it was fully kitted out with a brand spanking new bathroom, air conditioner/heater, blankets, and enough shelving to spread the entire contents of our day packs (I have definitely mastered the one-pack-wonder). Our convent conversion hostel in Florence on the other hand would have been more pleasant had it been deserted. We were to discover that staying in our dorm was a crazy Italian woman that would rant loudly in Italian all night long, rustle plastic bags, and pace up and down, the scuffle of her slippers like the sound of a body dag being dragged along the floor; we thought that perhaps she had OCD as she was constantly preparing to go out but never made it through the front door.

Whistle Stops
Venice was charming with its canals and narrow streets with midget sized doors, and thankfully not smelly as it was in fact quite cold. Having had only a couple hours sleep the night before, we spent the first day dreamily meandering, drinking coffee, and later finding a watering hole, ending the night on prosecco limoncello with some local Italians. After a full day of Venetian pleasures, it is suffice to say that we were feeling pretty lethargic the next day. We basked in the sun eating strawberries on the canal, and stumbled upon the main plaza (our Venetian experience was one of mapless chance, merely following our noses or the direction of the sun) where the pigeons blanket the square, and people pay to be attacked by them. Via a water taxi which smelled alarmingly like feet, we visited Murano, a nearby island, home of Murano glass, and mecca of tacky tourist crap. From the 25% of genuinely quality articles, I bought a pendent, as I had recently noted that my quest to find interesting pieces to add to my jewellery collection was failing miserably. (If you knew what pains I went through trying to decide what to take with me when I left NZ you would understand the importance of this mission and the gravity of the situation.) We intended to visit the island of Borano also, but it was too cold and even Claire's three layers of thermals and a hot chocolate didn't ease the situation.
We left Venice with thoughts of an adventurous day ahead of us, but after several hours of fruitless wanderings in Bologna, (this would have been an opportune time for a bit of Lonely Planet intervention) we hopped on the next train to Florence. Due to half of Bologna trying to also leave on this train, we found ourselves sitting on the steps, in front of the toilet and the exit, much to the amusement of ourselves and that of the friendly Venezuelan couple behind us, straining our necks trying to peer out the window. At one point we were surrounded by a wall of suitcases and jabbering Italian confusion.
Florence was lively and although full of tourists, we were able to find areas where the pasticerias were abound and bustling and the fruiteria owners friendly. We discovered a fantastically kitsch bar that would have looked hideous by day, but under the glow of the insulation tube decorated lights, the plastic flowers and the disco globe really worked; plus they had apertivos which meant a free dinner!!
The day which we reserved for sights started off with a mission to find that perfect man; we ended up seeing the fake David, (although the view was worth the climb) and had to look on the back of all the postcards to find the destination of the real David, (a completely unassuming, faceless building, the only tell-tale sign being the people selling David aprons and those mini tripods outside.) We attempted to find the Medici tombs but were unsuccessful, and to be honest, there were so many extravagant churches and art museums to see, but I think we've reached the point of being churched/castl-ed/ancient building-ed out and are much happier people watching on the dirty steps eating 40c olives.
On our third day in Florence, we took a trip down south to a medieval town called Sienna. There was a wedding coming out of the church in the square where we were sunbathing, which added to the fanciful quality of the town. I cursed my thermals as I ate sugar coated doughnut balls that were all squidgy inside, and tried to cool down with the regulation gelato. It seemed like the place to come for a tourist day trip, as it was all postcards and gift stores, but in a very lovely setting.
Our last stop, and the home of my favourite touristy site thus far, was Pisa. The Eiffel Tower is beautiful, the Alhambra amazing, but the Leaning Tower of Pisa is just hilarious; you can't help but crack a smile and have a bit of a giggle when you see it!!! I have also never seen so many stalls selling the same things; I wonder if there is a factory dedicated entirely to producing those mini Leaning Tower of Pisas? There is not much else in Pisa, so there is ample time to perfect the "holding up the tower" photo, and in our case, waiting at the vending machine deprived airport, which is only a 20 minute walk from the city centre, which was good as I was literally down to my last 5c (although I didn't find some euros hidden in amongst my pounds, just in time for some boredom snacks!).
So there it is; we said buongiorno, got addicted to coffee, and were constantly di ritardo as we were too lazy to change our clocks. My next foray into Italy will be high times in Rome, perhaps a bit of volcanic action in Sicily, and if money allows, a truly Tuscan experience in the vineyards. Until then, it's back to this stressed out city!
Ciao ciao!!

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